A RENERGISED Yarck Hotel, has recently reopened under the capable custodianship of high calibre Melbourne publicans Geoff Lindsay and Paul Dimattina.

Chef Geoff Lindsay and former Western Bulldogs football player Paul Dimattina, are business partners at the renowned Lamaro's Hotel in South Melbourne and have brought their winning formula to the North East, reinvigorating this classic country pub just off the Maroondah Highway.

"We were mindful of not losing the intrinsic character and integrity of the original structure," said chef Geoff Lindsay of the pub's extensive renovations.

"It was important to retain the relaxed vibe and community focus, whilst also modernising the space."

"The region around Yarck is an amazing food and wine producing area, and it is a location I was very much aware of working in the upper echelons of the hospitality industry," said Geoff.

"My menus have always been produce–driven, and over my career I've come across so many suppliers from the region, and it always intrigued me.

"It surprises me that the area is not more well–known for its food and wine.

"The river fish for instance that are produced up here are world–class, yet under–valued in comparison to sea fish.

"And the beef cattle are of an equivalent standard," Geoff said.

So when the opportunity presented to acquire the Yarck Hotel, both Geoff and Paul leapt at the opportunity.

Purchasing the freehold during the pandemic, the business partners had been looking to expand their enterprise country–side, after consecutive lockdowns had the Melbournians craving the great outdoors.

Although Yarck wasn't initially on their radar, the desire to showcase great local produce on the menu made the tiny town in the Murrindindi Shire an obvious choice.

Situated effectively on a theoretical crossroads, looking across to the Yarra Valley, down into Yea, over to the Strathbogies and Euroa and then up into Mansfield, the King Valley, the Milawa Gourmet region and Beechworth, the township is hemmed by gourmet agricultural offerings.

And that's not even taking into consideration what Yarck itself has immediately on offer, from the premium quality Koala Cherries to Tom's Exotic Mushrooms.

"It just seemed like the ideal place to come and cook great produce, and further crystalise and expand on that regional identity for food and wine,'" said Geoff.

"As a chef, it's very exciting to have access to all these things at your fingertips.

"To be able to visit a local winery, then onto the trout farm to choose your fish, and then visit Yarra Valley Caviar and be shown how to milk the salmon for caviar.

"There's a myriad of things that you can do up here.

"Melbourne likes to know that their food comes from the country, but you don't get to shake the hand of the farmer very often.

"You can certainly do it up here," Geoff said.

The team at the Yarck Hotel have embraced the surrounding environment, with local producers comfortable popping in and sharing their fare.

Rainbow cauliflowers grown locally and gifted to the pub became a vegan dish on the specials board, and farm–fresh duck eggs from a neighbouring farmer became an omelette accompanied by Silver Lake smoked eel and herbs from the kitchen garden.

A local grower brought in some of his Spring excess, small and sweet and gloriously green, the broad beans were transformed by Geoff into a warm dip made with anchovies, garlic, butter and olive oil.

Having first hand access to so many quality ingredients, has also inspired Geoff and Paul to introduce more local produce onto the menu at their South Melbourne pub Lamaro's.

"It adds to talk in the city about the Yarck Hotel and the region," said Geoff.

On each table at Lamaro's, the proprietors have placed coasters with 'Where the farck is Yarck?' to further draw attention and open up that dialogue.

"Yarck has always held this association for me with great food," said Geoff, "from the time that the Tea Rooms used to operate, from where Buck's Bakery now stands."

A one hatted restaurant, Geoff used to relish the experience travelling to meet up with his north east–based daughter to dine at the renowned venue.

"I always wondered how the restaurant managed to not only survive but flourish for ten years, in a town of only 168 people," he said.

"And I think it primarily came down to great produce, great wine and great service.

"People have their eyes open to good things and support them.

"However within that, is the realization that you can't just rely on locals, we also are reliant on that tourist trade.

"We have to be a destination venue.

"And in order to do that we need to build that reputation – become a drawcard – and we're hoping to do this by focusing my cuisine on local produce.

"If you visit Yarck you will be able to see and taste all the best produce from the region."

This ethos is front and centre at Yarck Meat and Produce, just a stone's throw away on the Maroondah Highway and also owned by the enterprising team.

It was their first foray into the community and is a celebration of all the glorious food and wine produced not only locally but in the greater Victorian countryside.

The wine list, both at this unexpected providore and at the Yarck Hotel is a labour of love, crafted by sommelier Paul Bryant.

Under his refined palate, Lamaro's recently took out the national title for Best Pub Restaurant Wine List in the coveted Australia's Wine List of the Year Awards.

Paul brings this quest for the best to the Yarck Hotel, not only stepping into the role of venue manager but curating the extensive wine list – 100 labels strong – of all Victorian wines.

Wines of the North East are showcased by the glass, with Paul stipulating that all are sourced within a 100 kilometre radius of the hotel.

Geoff is just as enthusiastic about the local viticulture as he is about all the region's food producers.

"I believe that some of the best white wine comes from Beechworth," he said in appreciation.

"The chardonnay in particular, is another thing I would deem absolutely world–class."

It is a superlative that rolls easily off Geoff's tongue when talking of the food and wine of the region.

Geoff is loving his new reality, the inspiration from his new surrounds manifested in a menu that is wholesome and real, big on flavour and redolent of the North East.

Continuing his love–affair with the region, he has also made Gobur home for the moment,

Perched between Yarck and Merton in the rolling hills, the self–professed city slicker wakes to mountain views, without a neighbour in sight.

"It's as black as pitch at night," he said.

And when asked if he held any aspiration to farm, Geoff chuckled and let out a resounding 'no'.

"I like to leave things to the experts," he said.

"I have too much respect and admiration for all my producers and the work that they do.

"I appreciate beautiful produce.

"I celebrate it.

"But I'm certainly no green thumb, nor do I imagine I have any cattle wrangling skills.

"Besides I don't really like to get my shoes dirty."